Germany, 2010, 108 mins.
The doors of restaurant El Bulli are only open to the public for six months of the year; the rest of the time, a team of experts is creating a new avant-garde 30-course menu. Looking on from the sidelines, we watch experiments with structure, sound, color and – finally – flavor. Owner Ferran Adrià is always on hand, tasting everything created in this flavor lab.
El Bulli in Spain is arguably the best restaurant in the world. Only when it closes, it passes this honor on to Nomad in Copenhagen. Closes? Yes, each year El Bulli closes for a couple of months so that the chefs can retreat to their lab and construct new – well, how shall I put it – ‘cuisine’.
German filmmaker Gereon Wetzel followed the chefs in their lab and in the restaurant. In the film El Bulli – Cooking in progress, he perfectly aligns the creation of the new cuisine with the narrative of the film itself. And despite the lack of smell and taste in cinema, he manages to get across some of the sensations that food at El Bulli is all about.